Earliest Times
It was the river that first attracted settlers to the area and in the Bronze and Iron Ages the rich soils encouraged farming communities. The Romans in turn left traces of occupation - burials, roads, coins and pottery, but it was left to the Anglo-Saxons to build the first town. A large 6th century pagan cemetery found in Wallingford indicates the early presence of the Saxon newcomers but by the 9th century there was another invasion threat - this time from the Vikings. King Alfred, the Saxon king of Wessex, defeated the enemy but to defend his kingdom against further Viking attacks he built many fortified towns or burhs and here the story of the town really begins.

The Town is Born
Wallingford was one of Alfred's 'new towns', and the biggest: it was the same size as the king's capital, Winchester. It was enclosed on three sides (the river formed the fourth defence) by earthen walls capped with a wooden palisade and surrounded by a wet moat - the remains can still be seen today around the Kinecroft. The original 9th century street layout is still largely unchanged. Coins were struck in Wallingford at a Royal Mint and Saxon kings held land in the town and kept soldiers here. By 1066, when the next invader arrived, Wallingford was the leading town in Berkshire.

1066 and All That
In 1066, fresh from winning the Battle of Hastings, William the Conqueror came to Wallingford seeking a suitable place to cross the Thames with his army. Wigod, the lord of Wallingford, was a known Norman sympathiser and welcomed William. One of William's knights, Robert D'Oiley, married Wigod's daughter, Aldgitha, and on William's instructions the Normans began in 1067 to build a massive castle here which was to dominate the town's history for the next 600 years. For their co-operation, the people of Wallingford were given an extra hour before curfew - 9pm instead of 8pm - so the curfew bell still tolls just before nine, declaring the king's ancient favour.

Granting of the Charter - 1155
The first phase of Wallingford Castle was complete by 1071 but it was later expanded to have three walls and ditches and to be one of the most impressive and powerful castles in England. During the 12th century civil war between Queen Matilda and her cousin Stephen, it was the chief stronghold of the Queen in central England and here the treaty that concluded the war was drawn up in 1153.

In 1155, Henry II held a Great Council at Wallingford. He openly rewarded the town for supporting his mother Matilda, by granting it a magnificent Charter of Liberties - one of the oldest in England. Together with many special privileges, this Charter allowed Wallingford to have its own Guild and Burgesses and to hold regular markets, traditions which continue to this day. The town's regalia, including the 17th century silver-gilt mace, are still regularly used and are displayed in the Town Hall.

The Medieval Town
In the 13th century, Wallingford had 11 parishes, each with its own church - one of which was also the Priory, a cell of St Alban's Abbey. Besides these there was a Hospital run by the Order of St John, a castle church and two gate chapels. By the end of the next century, the ravages of the Black Death had taken their toll. At least a third of the townspeople died and only four churches were left in use. This, together with the building of a new bridge at Abingdon - an alternative route for traders - led eventually to an economic decline in the life of the town.

Royal Connections
The castle belonged to the King but in the 14th century it became part of the Duchy of Cornwall, passing to the eldest son of the monarch. It witnessed frequent royal visitors and residents, including King John and his younger son, Richard Earl of Cornwall, who greatly extended it. Edward II gave it to his favourite, Piers Gaveston, who held a huge tournament in the castle ward in 1307. Edward II's wife, Isabella, plotted here against her husband with Roger Mortimer, who was involved in Edward's subsequent murder. In later years, Edward the Black Prince kept Wallingford as his principal residence. Constables appointed to look after the castle included Thomas Chaucer, son of the poet Geoffrey, and William, Duke of Suffolk, who married Geoffrey's grand-daughter Alice and was benefactor of the school and almshouses which are still in use in nearby Ewelme. In the 15th century, Owen Tudor had the task of protecting the young King Henry VI who was tutored at Wallingford. Owen formed a liaison with Henry's young widowed mother, Katherine of Valois, and from this affair came the great line of Tudor Kings of England.

Change & Decay
By the 16th century the castle was decaying. There was less need for strong castles in the more settled times of the Tudors and Henry VIII shipped timber and lead from Wallingford down river by barge to enlarge his castle at Windsor. As we shall see, the castle's final death knell was sounded a hundred years later in 1652.

(Historic Wallingford - a Walk-round Guide priced £1.95 and Wallingford & the Civil War priced £2.75 are available from the Museum, Tourist Information Office or local shops,).
All text © Judy & Stuart Dewey 2001. All images © David Beasley 2001.